There's no better time to get outside, and off the map, than right now in the River City! With that spirit in mind, meet our guest editor, Andy Thompson. He’s the founder of the outdoors news site Richmondoutside.com, a former Richmond Times-Dispatch outdoors writer, co-founder of Terrain360, co-founder of RVA Osprey Cam, co-owner of Riverside Outfitters, and co-owner of Sharp’s Island. Take it away, Andy...
“It is not down in any map; true places never are.” -- Herman Melville, Moby Dick
That’s how Melville described Queequeg’s island home, and it’s been a guiding axiom for me since I first read it in high school. Cruise ships, packaged travel and tour guides with their placards raised high will take you places, but true places are harder to find. To do so requires adventuring with an entirely different mindset. So, let’s take Melville with us to the James River in search of true places. Here are three, of many, options...some of which are still out there waiting to be discovered.
Foushee
Mill
William Foushee was one of the most impactful and famous Richmonders of his own time that few know anything about today. RVA’s first mayor (in 1782), Foushee was a physician, politician, businessman and man about town, hobnobbing with the Founding Fathers. In 1819, he financed the building of a two-story gristmill on the north bank of the James River, just downstream of what is now the Nickel Bridge. The ruins of that once-massive stone structure still stands today! That's right, 200-years of storms and floods and general neglect have not quite consumed it. This abandoned and almost entirely unknown slice of Richmond offers a tangible link to Richmond history. Go in search of Foushee Mill, and you’ll be rewarded with a lovely hike along the James and a history lesson, courtesy of the sign erected two years ago by the James River Hikers Meetup group.
Vitals: To reach Foushee Mill, park at the Texas Beach lot and cross the train tracks on the concrete walk. Head down to the riverside trail at Texas Beach and walk up river. Once you pass the canal outflow below Maymont, before you reach the Nickel Bridge, begin looking for the stone remains (if you reach the Nickel Bridge, you’ve gone too far).
Catfish
Alley
Catfish Alley only exists in space and time for a couple months every year. Last year it didn’t exist at all! But that was soggy 2018! We’re beyond all that (I think). This year is shaping up to offer peak Catfish Alley. And the time is now. Go buy a cheap snorkel or grab some goggles and practice holding your breath. As the summer heat drains the James of water, pools form in the rocky part of the river downtown. Fish find themselves trapped in those pools, waiting for the next heavy rain. Sometimes those fish are huge flathead and blue catfish. Catfish Alley is the largest of those pools. Once you find it, stand on the rocks above it and take a deep breath. Yes, you are going to put on that snorkel, get in the water, and swim with the fishes! And yes, it will freak you out at first. But the catfishes won’t hurt you. They’ll hardly care you’re there. Touch them, if you dare. No one who’s experienced Catfish Alley sees the James River quite the same again.
Vitals:
Park at the Pipeline Walkway lotand follow the trail down to the Pipeline Trail, which is part of the James River Park System. Hop off the Pipeline to a sandy beach next to where the Pipeline rapids have eddied out and the water is calmer. Swim across (a PFD is helpful here, depending on your swimming level) to the closest island and walk inland and upstream. Depending on the river level, Catfish Alleyis about 25’ by 10’, but you’ll see many pools. Hop rocks. Explore. Check them all out!
Cooper's
Island
There’s an island—Cooper’s Island—that sits near the south bank of the James between the Atlantic Coastline Railroad Bridge and the Nickel Bridge, and on it are the dilapidated remains of an ancient treehouse. You have to bushwhack to the middle of the island to find it, and even then, it doesn’t always make itself obvious. But once you know it’s there, you can’t stop staring. And wondering: How long has it been there? What did it once look like? Who brought out all the materials to this island? And, maybe most intriguingly, how in the name of Pete Nelson did they get all those materials that high in that glorious tree?! So many good questions? Zero answers. Just the wonder.
Bonus adventure: The island’s most prominent feature isn’t the treehouse or even the bald eagle nest that also resides in a pine tree there. It’s the flatrock beach that beckons on the north side of its upstream tip. Bring a picnic and enjoy the lazy rapids at the water’s edge. Feeling super adventurous? Summon your inner child and gaze upstream from the flatrock beach. See the Atlantic Coastline Railroad Bridge? Good. Look down at the old bridge pilings immediately below it; there are 10 of them. Start at the south bank and count pilings toward the north bank. Stop at 7. Get yourself to that piling. You’ll know why when you get there. It won’t be easy, but in the summer it’s really not that hard. Wade, swim, take your time. Just get there. Trust me.
Vitals:
Park at the trailheadnear the traffic circle where Riverside Drive meets New Kent Road in Westover Hills. Start down the steep trail and stay left of the concrete ruins you’ll see in 50 feet. Make a beeline to the river. Cross the train tracks. The island you see once you reach the river is Cooper’s. Walk downstream 50 more feet and find the pipelinethat goes over to another island and then Cooper’s. Water will be pouring over it, but at current river levels, you’ll make it with ease.
Turn off the cell. Burn the map. Get lost. This week we're encouraging you to wander and ramble east on foot, bike, or boat. See ya out there!
Richmond's
Low Line
Wandering east on your way out of Richmond, look for the Low Line Gardens, a linear park that transformed a neglected stretch of weeds into a bustling garden path along the Kanawha Canal. Inspired by New York City’s High Line, the Low Line is the brainchild of Capital Trees, a Richmond nonprofit that aims to create beautiful and environmentally sound public landscapes. The group relies on public-private partnerships to deliver urban green spaces that build community and improve the health and wellbeing of those who use them. Here, native plantings bring life and beauty to what had been a pocket of blight, and now attracts walkers, joggers, cyclists, pets, and children to the restored outdoor space. Underway now is phase two of the project, known as the Low Line Green, that will extend the restoration of the five-and-a-half-acre corridor between Great Shiplock Park and the floodwall at 17th Street.
Head east on Route 5 and along the riverbank you’ll find Ron Blaha, the last of the old time riverboat captains still plying the James and Appomattox Rivers. At 79, Captain Ron will dazzle you with stories about adventures on the James in a turn-of-the-century wooden tugboat, his years sailing a 41' Formosa Ketch along the East Coast, and living off the grid in the Bahamas. He’ll even sprinkle in a few side stories of sailing off the coast of Mexico, two of the Great Lakes, and the Adriatic Sea between Italy and the Czech Republic. But each tale always leads Ron back to the beautiful James River where he has lovingly rebuilt and re-furbished two houseboats at the Richmond Yacht Basin (Virginia’s oldest marina) that are for rent through Airbnb, VRBO, and Homeaway. When booking a night on one of these charming boats, you’ll also want to save time to hop over to the Lilly Pad for burgers, oysters, and beer served dockside. And before you leave in the morning, make sure to ask Ron to sign a copy of one his books so you can bring home some of his adventurous spirit with you.
Hop on your bike, hit the Virginia Capital Trail, and simply follow your nose! You’ll soon find yourself at a small outpost at 2097 New Market Road that is home to the best Southern-style ribs in all the land. Behind the smoker, you’ll meet the father-son duo, Ronnie and Darrell Logan. These Varina natives once worked a slower cooker in a lot near Millie’s Diner that became so legendary that the pit masters opened their own permanent digs just east of town. A hotspot for outdoor enthusiasts and BBQ purists alike, The Original Ronnie’s BBQ is the perfect reward (and fuel) after exploring the Virginia Capital Trail. And don’t stop just for the ribs, make sure to try Ronnie’s fish, pulled pork, brisket, and chicken wings. Most of all though, spend a little extra time listening to Ronnie and Darrell’s stories, learn about the area, and get inspired by their family-run business before wandering back to RVA.
Represent Richmond well in our comfy cotton t-shirt emblazoned with a hand-drawn design. Yes, that's Richmond's airport code. We consider this tee perfect attire for wandering Route 5, hitting the trail, exploring traveling the world, or simply enjoying a lazy day. Trust us — it's so super soft, you'll be wearing it everywhere.
Chance is in charge this week! Chauncey Jenkins, who performs live under the stage name Chance Fischer, is the General Manager of Lemaire Restaurant at the Jefferson Hotel. When he's not running the show at one of the area's most celebrated restaurants, you can catch him on stage throughout the region. He's a Richmond native that loves bringing people together from diverse backgrounds to enhance the meaning of community. As our guest editor, he's changing things up a bit by focusing on Monday tips!
Monday can be the most loathed day of the week for some. But for those in my industry, it's known as the second day of the "bartender’s weekend.” For me, it's a day of reflection and restoration. I clean the apartment, read, and write songs to reenergize myself. I’ve also made it my duty to never be bored on a Monday evening. Here's how ...
Stoplight
Gelato
Nestled on Brook Road across from Gallery5 is the best gelato shop in all of Richmond––Stoplight Gelato! It’s cozy with a little bit of outdoor seating, and perfect to start off your Monday. I was first awestruck by a black pepper and ash sorbet, but recently their pizzas have been my love affair. Paul Winston, alum of Sub Rosa and Dutch & Co, has rolled out some sensational classics at Stoplight Gelato. A personal favorite is the asparagus pizza, which comes fully outfitted with goat cheese, basil, and garlic. It's clean, herbaceous, savory, and elicits an immediate grin. All of the pizzas at Stoplight have a soft crunch, gentle dough, light char, and demonstrate an understanding of how to let ingredients speak for themselves through simplicity and harmony. Finish your time off at Stoplight with an affogato––gelato drowned in espresso made to drown out your worries.
What better way to bridge your Monday afternoon than with competitive games over good drinks at Bingo Beer Co? Play beer pong outside on their patio, or my favorite, Giant Connect 4, on one of the couches. There’s also Skee-Ball, which I have now turned into a competitive game although it really shouldn’t be. While at Bingo, take advantage of the draft Old Fashioned for a proper buzz. The Old Fashioned is a nitrogenated pour coming out silky and pristine. And for beer offerings, Bingo’s Fassionola Gose is a galaxy among stars. Inspired by the dominant ingredient in the Hurricane cocktail, the Fassionola Gose is a tiki drink in a brew, oozing with passionfruit and tropical notes glissading across the palate. A fun note for those whose appetites are just as big as mine: Monday nights are $5 Burger Night at this capital of EATertainment!
Monday evenings in Richmond should be intentional. Plan, plan, plan and start out with an evening destination in mind to avoid couch sitting. I always choose to end my Mondays with live music. In my journey through music, I've met few people as talented and visionary as Calvin Brown, who goes by the stage name Calvin Presents. Every Monday, in The Dark Room at The Hofheimer, Calvin invites a host of musicians for an unrestricted jam session. The Roots Jam Session is a “who’s who” of the burgeoning music scene in RVA where you’re likely to see everyone from touring musicians to sprouting talents getting their first shot at the spotlight. I've fallen in love with a new act every single time and it has become a Monday ritual. Calvin’s glowing soul can make a stadium feel like a living room, and it's the intimacy of Roots that makes it most special. Boasting boundless improvisation, endless reinvention, and eternal self-awareness, Roots is the perfect nightcap. Get there early and pair the soothing sounds of the evening with an Old Forester on the rocks from the bar, or three.
This special collaboration with artist Hamilton Glass features his signature #Whosham RVA logo laser etched around the entirety of these stunning double rocks cocktail glasses that are perfect for a locally made beverage of your choice!
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